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Editorial
 Topics of Interest
July- December 201
1

Therapeutic Vs commercial moisturizers

 Moisturizers are the single most important category of products in dermatology and they. are an important active agent in all cosmeceuticals allowing improved skin appearance, reduction in fine lines and alleviation of dryness

More recently, moisturizers have adapted to the role of skin-barrier repair. Moisturizers do not really moisturize the skin. When applying a moisturizer, its water evaporates leaving behind an emulsion of oil-soluble ingredients that does not moisturize or hydrate the skin. Actually the water comes from within the body and the moisturizer prevents it from leaving the skin. Moisturizers actually function by creating an environment that is optimal for barrier repair, allowing the skin barrier to heal itself in an efficient manner.

 Skin Barrier:
The skin barrier is formed by the combination of protein-rich skin cells and lipid secreted by the oil glands and found in the intervening intercellular gaps. Moisturizers attempt to mimic the intercellular lipids that are composed of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol.

Therapeutic moisturizers:
Therapeutic moisturizers produce physical changes in the skin in the form of an increase in skin hydration resulting from a decrease in transepidermal water loss to the environment (TEWL). They place a water-impervious film over the skin surface which decrease TEWL  TEWL is elevated when the skin barrier is damaged.

Therapeutic moisturizers contain ceramides in a certain ratio to be able to penetrate the skin. Some of the commercial products contain ceramides, but not in the proper ratio to work.

Maintaining proper water balance in the skin is key to keeping skin hydrated. The skin must have some capacity to hold water or desiccation would occur immediately. The natural water holding material is hyaluronic acid. Therapeutic moisturizers contain high concentration of hyaluronic acid together with glycerin and proteins.

Free fatty acids are found in the intercellular lipids in the epidermis.  Fatty acids create a water proof semi-permeable barrier. Therapeutic moisturizers contain concentrated high grade fatty acids that interact with the skin barrier.

One of the earliest signs of barrier damage is the onset of inflammation. Therapeutic moisturizers incorporate botanical anti-inflammatory agents such as Glycyrrhizic acid, Vitis vinifera extracts that prevent skin inflammation. Commercial products rarely incorporate such ingredients.

Biomani Scientific SkinCare products are known to be true therapeutic that target certain skin conditions such as acne, pigmentation, dark circles around the eyes, rejuvenation and much more.

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