|
Therapeutic Vs commercial
moisturizers
Moisturizers are the
single most important category of products in dermatology and they. are an
important active agent in all cosmeceuticals allowing improved skin appearance,
reduction in fine lines and alleviation of dryness
More recently, moisturizers
have adapted to the role of skin-barrier repair. Moisturizers do not really
moisturize the skin. When applying a moisturizer, its water evaporates leaving
behind an emulsion of oil-soluble ingredients that does not moisturize or
hydrate the skin. Actually the water comes from within the body and the
moisturizer prevents it from leaving the skin. Moisturizers actually function by
creating an environment that is optimal for barrier repair, allowing the skin
barrier to heal itself in an efficient manner.
Skin
Barrier:
The skin barrier is formed by the combination of protein-rich skin cells and
lipid secreted by the oil glands and found in the intervening intercellular
gaps. Moisturizers attempt to mimic the intercellular lipids that are composed
of ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol.
Therapeutic moisturizers:
Therapeutic moisturizers produce physical changes in the skin in the form of an
increase in skin hydration resulting from a decrease in transepidermal water
loss to the environment (TEWL). They place a water-impervious film over the skin
surface which decrease TEWL TEWL is elevated when the skin barrier is damaged.
Therapeutic moisturizers
contain ceramides in a certain ratio to be able to penetrate the skin. Some of
the commercial products contain ceramides, but not in the proper ratio to work.
Maintaining proper water
balance in the skin is key to keeping skin hydrated. The skin must have some
capacity to hold water or desiccation would occur immediately. The natural water
holding material is hyaluronic acid. Therapeutic moisturizers contain high
concentration of hyaluronic acid together with glycerin and proteins.
Free fatty acids are found
in the intercellular lipids in the epidermis. Fatty acids create a water proof
semi-permeable barrier. Therapeutic moisturizers contain concentrated high grade
fatty acids that interact with the skin barrier.
One of the earliest signs
of barrier damage is the onset of inflammation. Therapeutic moisturizers
incorporate botanical anti-inflammatory agents such as Glycyrrhizic acid, Vitis
vinifera extracts that prevent skin inflammation. Commercial products rarely
incorporate such ingredients.
Biomani
Scientific SkinCare products are known to be true therapeutic that target
certain skin conditions such as acne, pigmentation, dark circles around the
eyes, rejuvenation and much more. |